Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Postcard from Salamanca

Two postcards, actually:

We will excommunicate your ass!

Any person who steals, embezzles, or otherwise carries away any book, pergament or paper from this library will be excommunicated, without possibility of absolution until full restitution has been made.

la rana sobre la calavera

la rana sobre la calavera

University facade in Salamanca

Hidden among the intricate carvings on the facade is a small frog perched atop a skull. Legend has it that in order to be successful in one's exams one must seek out the location of the frog without help from anyone else. I managed to do so this my first week here, thereby increasing my confidence about my chances for success in my exam next week.

This legend is the reason that frog souvenirs are ubiquitous in Salamanca. The frog is to this city what the bear is to Madrid.

fadeout to the sound of disgruntled ursine growling ...

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Checking in

This post is just to say that, while I was neglecting to blog today, I was nonetheless gainfully employed, augmenting my hours spent engaged (one way or another) with the intricacies of the exciting, but challenging Spanish language. Today may have set a record, as my total came to more than 12 consecutive hours, to wit:

  • Grammar classes : 4 hours
  • Conversation class : 2 hours
  • El País : 1 hour
  • Watching Ridley Scott's "1492" (doblado in eThpanish, so this counts) : 2 hours 20 minutes
  • Drinking with classmates : 2 hours
  • Watching appalling eThpanish TV : 45 minutes

The plain people of Ireland: That's it!??? That's your entire post!??? This is getting ridiculous. Why not just post your laundry list and have done with it?
The management: Certainly, if you would like.
The plain people of Ireland: Oh, pull yourself together and get a grip. That was just a joke, for God's sake.
The management: Well, not every post here can be Pulitzer material, you know. But perhaps tomorrow's Feast of the Assumption (a local holiday) will bring fresh inspiration. I have a date with el estilo indirecto (indirect speech) and its associated bewitching panoply of changes in verb tenses and moods. That's always good for a few laughs.
The plain people of Ireland: God, why do we even bother. Consider yourself on notice, bucko!
The management: There is no need for that kind of tone. This is a civil blog. But I promise to be more scintillating tomorrow. Meanwhile, here is a picture of eThpain's noble king, Carlos V.

Carlos V, Toledo

Sunday, August 12, 2007

Congratulations!

If you are reading this, you may just be the 2500th visitor* to this blog. Current total stands at 2497, at the time of this posting.

* since the counter started, that is.

PAGE 2000

PAGE in the header for this post refers to the "Population Approach Group in Europe", a group of European scientists (pharmacokineticists for the most part) involved in applying the principles and methods of population pharmacokinetic(PK) and pharmacodynamic (PD) modeling to real-world problems in drug development. With me so far? Keep going, it gets better after this, I promise.

Well, because of certain activities in my former life, more specifically, the book I co-authored with my good friend Marie Davidian, (link to the book) I am (and probably will remain, for as long as I live) inextricably linked to the topic of population PK and PD modeling. Thus, it was my honor to be invited to participate as a speaker in the June, 2000 meeting of the PAGE group, which was held in Salamanca. (link to notice of the PAGE 2000 meeting). So, you see, I do have a previous history with Salamanca, about which I've been holding out on you a little.

The conference was immensely enjoyable: it was an honor to have been invited, and I have nothing but the fondest memories of the event, and of Salamanca during that time. My favorite memory is the following. My flight into Madrid airport arrived at around 6pm, which meant I ended up taking the "special conference bus" from the airport, which left at 10pm. There were only about six people on the bus, it was late and I was completely exhausted by then. I vaguely remember passing through the darkened Spanish countryside, perking up briefly at signs of Ávila, then relapsing into exhausted, fitful sleep. When I woke up again, four of the other passengers had mysteriously vanished. The only two people remaining on the bus were one of the other speakers, Jean-Louis Steimer, whom I knew slightly from a previous professional conference, and I. (note: although Jean-Louis doesn't show as a presenter, I'm pretty sure it was he.) The bus kept turning into narrower and narrower streets, until eventually the bus-driver, with an internationally recognizably expression of disgust, just stopped the bus and signalled to us that we had arrived at our destination. Before we had time to gather our wits, we found ourselves on the street, with our bags, watching as the bus vanished into the distance again.

colegio arzobispo fonseca, main entrance

We were right outside the entrance shown above, though both iron doors were completely closed, and the street was dark and deserted. I think both of us had imagined that the conference lodging would consist of some kind of modern, Holiday-Inn-like hotel and there was nothing even remotely resembling such accommodation in sight. We walked up and down the street for a bit, vainly trying to decipher the street name in the dark, desperately seeking in our bags for the destination address, which we eventually located. But, not a person in sight, and nothing but the huge stone walls and medieval iron doors of the university entrance, not that we were able to recognize it as such, given our state of confusion.

Just as we were about to give in to despair, there wandered into view one of the strangest pairs one could imagine - an elderly Spanish gentleman and his wife, very obviously upper middle class, both dressed to the nines, strolling along the street as if it were 9 pm rather than 1 am. They appeared to be giving us a wide berth, but since they were the only visible link to humanity, we fell on them beseechingly, showing them the address we were seeking, and asking them to help. Then, in a scene worthy of Buñuel, the gentleman looked us up and down, looked at the paper with the address, looked us up and down again, and shook his head dismissively, as he delivered himself of the following utterance:

"Yes, it is true that there are accommodations at this address", gesturing vaguely towards the building behind us. "But these accommodations are only for very important people."

And he handed us back the paper firmly, making it perfectly clear that we in no way qualified, in his mind, as the caliber of person who might expect to be lodged there. He and his lovely wife continued on their way, ignoring our protestations that, hey, we were important people....

What to do? At least he had confirmed that we were outside the correct building. So we set to examining the fortress-like entrance a little more closely and finally noticed a porter's bell off to one side (which had to be rung by pulling on it). Two minutes later, a sleepy and noticeably grumpy porter was opening the huge iron door to give us access to our accommodation inside. Regardless of our travel-weary, disheveled appearance, our passports were enough to convince him that we were, indeed, the eminent speakers featured on the program.

So that's my abiding memory of my first trip to Salamanca, in June 2000.

Your (very important) correspondent in Castilla y León.

Q-words

  • codorniz: quail (the noun, not the verb)
  • membrillo: quince jelly
  • graznar: quack (the verb)
  • matasanos: quack (the noun)

The plain people of Ireland: This is a very lazy idea for a post, wouldn't you say?
The management: Possibly so, but still not without its uses. For instance, on the culinary front, knowledge of the word codorniz might save people from ordering the quail salad (all those crunchy, spitty little bones). And the word membrillo proves essential if you want one of the best ice-creams in town, the odd-sounding but delicious helado parmesano membrillo, available at that heladería over on the Plaza Mayor, the one which always has a long queue (cola).

Hyperbole

Recently, in a discussion over on the Table Talk section of www.Salon.com, I had reason to sum up my views on the subject of hyperbole in a single sentence. Which, as this blog is about sharing, I reproduce below:

I'd rather die bleeding in a gutter, with mutant rats gnawing at my intestines and Teletubbies singing the collected works of Anne Coulter to me as I expired, than live in a world without hyperbole.

City on a hill

Yesterday, I participated in a day excursion to Toledo, organized by the school. So it seems necessary to devote a blog entry to the trip. But what to say, really? Frankly, I found it a little disappointing, and feel somewhat guilty that this is the case (after all, I should count my blessings that I'm here, right?). But it would be a downright falsehood to say that I found the city enchanting. According to our guide (Javiér, one of the sweeter teachers at school), the big selling point is the mixture of Judaic, Moorish, and Christian cultures throughout the history of the city, and evident in its architecture. Which is fine, except that the same mixture is evident throughout Andalucía, so this invites an inevitable comparison with Sevilla. A comparison in which Toledo is doomed to come in a very poor second.

Here are some representative pictures:

view of Toledo

Toledo

Toledo, Calle de Toledo de Ohio

I liked the fact that they had a street named in honor of the other Toledo.

I think that the other thing which contributed to my definite lack of enthusiasm for the city was the undisguised rapacity of the local merchants and restaurateurs, as far as mulcting visitors to the city was concerned.

My passion for Sevilla continues unabated. Castilla-La Mancha will have to work harder to dislodge Sevilla from top place in my heart. As I said, I feel slightly guilty that this post is not more positive, but there is presumably no point in feigning enthusiasm. If nothing else, this blog is dedicated to truthiness in reporting.

Gatito castellano

gatito castellano

Pictured in the Jewish quarter of Toledo, Castilla-La Mancha, heart of Quijote country.

Friday, August 10, 2007

Furry grim reaper

Oscar, the pussycat of doom

Thanks to my dear friend, Anna, for this link.

Cebra salmantina, con zapatos rojos

cebra salmantina

Emergency vocabulary update

la conejita Playboy : the Playboy bunny

The plain people of Ireland: Could you use it in a sentence, please?
The management: Certainly. "Un juez ha prohibido la difusión de un video en el que se ve la operación para aumentar sus pechos a la que sometió Anna Nicole Smith, la conejita Playboy fallecida en febrero". (A judge has prohibited distribution of a video showing the breast augmentation surgery undergone by A.N.S., the Playboy bunny who died last February).

Correction

In Wednesday's entry, I mistakenly identified the "photo which has escandalized eSpain". Here is a copy of the (correct) photo in question:



The princess of Astúrias is on the left; la Reina Sofía (the person, not the art gallery) is on the right. Picture courtesy of those fine paparazzi at ¡Hola!

Just thought you would want me to set the record straight.

Doesn't "taste like chicken"

Culinary update: yesterday evening, after the culture class (peoples and countries of Hispanoamérica) I joined some of the other students and we went to a tapas bar. One with tapas exóticas. For the first time in my life I tasted ostrich meat (avestruz) which, oddly enough, did not taste like chicken. We decided to pass on the other possibility of kangaroo meat. If only because the eSpanish word for kangaroo (canguro) also means "nanny", so one couldn't have been 100% sure of what one was actually ordering.

Afterwards we went to the heladería in the Plaza Mayor which always has the longest lines and I had some of the best ice-cream in my life (queso con arandanas and queso con membrillo - cheesecake with cranberries and with quince jelly, respectively). Right up there with the frutas del bosque in Sevilla and Granada.

Unfortunately, it has to be mentioned that something on the tapas menu didn't agree with me (problemas gastrointestinales), so that I didn't actually make it to class today. More's the pity.

Despite today's absence, I still feel that I have learned a bunch since coming here 10 short days ago, and have high hopes for the next two weeks of classes as well. I now read the paper from top to bottom (de cabo a rabo), even the boring economic articles. You never know what might come up on the test!

Meanwhile there is tomorrow's excursion to Toledo to look forward to. Life is good.

Thursday, August 9, 2007

They groom horses, don't they?

Just in case any of the male readers of this blog ever find themselves in Spain in need of a haircut, I will just offer that the more useful phrase is "peluquería de caballeros", not "peluquería de caballos". Though, speaking from experience, use of the latter phrase will make a Spaniard laugh so hard they snort agua mineral through their nose.

Meanwhile, for a pictorial tour of Salamanca, including photos of the Don Quijote piso de lujo (where I am currently living), click on the link below:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gaelstat/sets/72157601328893900/

The street where I live

The street where I live.

Vocabulary update

Three recent acquisitions that I enjoyed particularly:

ayuno: meaning fast, from the verb ayunar. Hence the word desayuno, for breakfast.

antojo: meaning a craving, caprice, or whim. It also means birthmark, because of a putative association between unsatisfied cravings during pregnancy and the occurrence of birthmarks.

ajo: meaning garlic. More interesting is the derived phrase "estar en el ajo" (literally, to be in the garlic), meaning to know the score, to be clued into things.

The plain people of Ireland: Here, wait a minute, it looks like you were too lazy to go beyond the A-entries in the dictionary. What's up?
The management: I can see how you might get that impression, but I assure you that it's not an accurate one. All parts of my dictionary are grubby and well-thumbed.

Wednesday, August 8, 2007

Mujeres desesperadas

I'm sure that fans of "Desperate Housewives" (a show I have never actually seen) will be as delighted as I was at the news that David Beckham and Robbie Williams will be featured in the upcoming season as a gay couple who move into the neighborhood of Honeysuckle Court or Cherry Blossom Crescent or Magnolia Mansions, or whatever the hell it's called.

Appointment TV, for those who like that sort of thing. With the addition of this type of metrosexual and ????sexual talent, the sky is the limit!

Bicentennial post, achieved without steroids


After mature consideration, I decided how better to celebrate this 200th post aquí en España than with this (unfortunately rather small) reproduction of the photo about which everyone is talking this week, that of the future queen, Doña Letizia taken in her beach wear, as the royal family spend some time in their residencia estival (el palacio de Marivent de Palma de Mallorca).
Note that a subscription to la Semana, which - unfortunately - I do not possess (even I have to set limits somewhere) would allow you to weigh in on such important questions on whether or not you believe that Javier Bardem and Scarlett Johansson engaged in some offscreen canoodling, as well as whether the Infanta (and future queen) Leonór resembles her grandma, Queen Sofía.
Anyone with strong views on either of these two burning questions is invited to leave a comment on this blog.
The plain people of Ireland: Funny that "estival" means the same thing in English as it does in Spanish.
The management: Your erudition astonishes me, frankly.

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

More pictures of Salamanca





My apartment is just around the corner from the DonQuijote café.
Coming tomorrow: post #200!

The Curator

If this doesn't move you, nothing will:

The Curator (a poem by Miller Williams)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miller_Williams

El País

"So, David", I imagine my adoring public asking me, "how do you keep up with current events, while you are over there in Iberia? It must be hard to stay abreast of the latest Bush administration atrocities."

Indeed, though it seems fair to point out that not keeping completely abreast of said atrocities might be considered a major advantage of living here in eSpain. Depressingly enough, it's not as if they are going to go away any time soon, and there will presumably be ample time to catch up with things upon my return to San Francisco.

Nonetheless, the question is a fair one, and deserves a serious answer. I have two primary sources for keeping up on current events while I am over here. The first is the always-informative www.Salon.com, who can stop sending me e-mails already - I renewed my subscription last night, OK? Smart, eclectic, funny, informative, with a definite liberal bias (they are, after all, San Francisco based), Salon is also host to Table Talk, a highly eclectic, intelligent, funny, muy simpático community of subscribers, who have been an invaluable group of online friends for me during the past year or so.

My second major information source these days is the newspaper El País and its online website. Among the main Spanish dailies, it would be considered the most left-wing, in contrast to the ultra-conservative ABC, (a reliable mouthpiece for - say - the view of the Catholic hierarchy, as well as of those remaining diehard franquistas), or the more middle-of-the-road El Mundo. I generally buy El País at least three days a week (to read it daily would be an impossible time-sink; articles in the Sunday magazine section alone can keep me going for days). For whatever reason, it seems to suit my level exactly - the articles are interesting, generally well-written, and understandable, while still presenting enough of a challenge to keep expanding my vocabulary. Often as not, at 3:30, after the morning´s classes have ended, you'll find me eating lunch in a local café, poring over the newspaper, underlining unfamiliar words for subsequent lookup. I wish I could say that the percentage of unfamiliar words is steadily decreasing, but this doesn't yet seem to be the case. On the other hand, it is really good for my vocabulary.

Helpful hint: for up-to-date news of goings on in the Bourbon family, the País website is far superior to the paper itself (way more photos). Though of course, for special occasions, such as the recent royal baptism of the Infanta, it may be worth splurging on one of those magazines specifically dedicated to this aspect of eSpanish life. Might I suggest Hello! magazine? They have a special subsection devoted to the goings-on of assorted European royal families, and Eurotrash generally.

As a public service, here is the link:

http://www.hellomagazine.com/royalty/

Enjoy!

Domestic bliss

So, here I sit, in the piso de lujo of Don Quijote, just hanging out, doing laundry. ¡En casa! Quite a change from the laundry-challenged days of Granada. Why, I think I may just have to put on a fresh pair of socks. Just because I can. Courtesy of the lavadora por excelencia, pictured below:

lavadora en casa

The plain people of Ireland: ¿Laundry? ¡Laundry! Is that the best you can do? You expect us to care about your laundry?
The management: Why, no and no, since you ask. Read my next scintillatingly insightful post about Spanish print media, complete with links to la prensa rosa.
The plain people of Ireland: Oh, fair enough so.

Monday, August 6, 2007

It was a dark and stormy night

Previously on this blog, we had cause to mention Edward Bulwer-Lytton, and his eponymous contest, to find the worst opening sentence for an (imaginary) novel.

Well, this year's contest results are now available:

http://www.sjsu.edu/depts/english/2007.htm

My personal favorite is the winning sentence from the adventure category for this year, reproduced below in its full glory:

As the hippo's jaws clamped on Henry's body he noted the four huge teeth badly in need of a clean, preferably with one of those electric sonic toothbrushes, and he reflected that his name would be immortalized by his unusual death, since hippo killings are not a daily occurrence, at least not in the high street of Chipping Sodbury.

Tim Lafferty
Horsell, Woking, UK

But there are many more, equally hilarious, entries at the link given above. Check it out!

OK, maybe just one more, from the children's section:

Mary had a little lamb; its fleece was Polartec 200 (thanks to gene splicing, a diet of force-fed petrochemical supplements, and regular dips in an advanced surface fusion polymer), which had the fortunate side effect of rendering it inedible, unlike that other Mary's organic lamb which misbehaved at school and wound up in a lovely Moroccan stew with dried apricots and couscous.


Julie JensenLodi, CA .


There's just so much raw talent out there. It makes a person think.

Nueva semana

This morning, four more students piled in to our preparatory class for el DELE intermedio, bringing our total to 8 (the maximum number in any Don Quijote class). Since I have been spoiled in the past months by being in classes where the typical number of students rarely exceeded 5, it feels distinctly crowded. Oddly, though there are only 3 students in the conversation class that I take immediately following the four hours of DELE preparation, this class too leaves something to be desired, as the other two students are at a considerably lower level.

As a result, I feel oddly disgruntled, while recognizing how unreasonable this response is. To keep things in perspective, I should note that I still feel like I am learning a hell of a lot. In particular, I am happy to note that my almost complete inability to speak Spanish (or any language, really) a week ago today, when I arrived back in Madrid, has been completely cured, and that I am yapping away at full speed again.

But I simply cannot manage to watch two hours of Spanish TV daily, as has been recommended by our teachers. The risk of permanent brain damage is simply too great to be ignored.

On the (very) positive side, Salamanca is proving to be a charming, highly accessible, fun city. The fact that my age is at least twice that of the average student is something I simply choose not to obsess about.

Well, maybe just a little.

Sunday, August 5, 2007

Classic headline

"Turkey swears in new parliament"



Plucked from the headlines. The backstory: the regrettable recent rise in meleagrine Tourette's syndrome.

El museo de brujería

El museo de brujería

Por desgracías, el museo estuvo cerrado cuando estabamos en Segovía.

Snacktastrophe!

http://www.theonion.com/content/node/29194

http://www.theonion.com/content/radio_news/pudding_factory_disaster


Saturday, August 4, 2007

Friday, August 3, 2007

Silica gel of the Magdalen

File this entry under "idle musings and random connections".

Observation # 1: Each time you buy a new suitcase, or other luggage-type item, it is invariably accompanied by a little packet of something, which I believe to be silica gel. The little packet comes with the inevitable warning "do not ingest", and presumably is included for its desiccant (sp?) properties, as a preventative against mold and mildew.

Observation # 2: Yesterday, while roaming the aisles of the recently-discovered neighborhood supermarket, I yielded to temptation and bought a package of something called "magdalenas cuadradas" (square magdalens), which bore a strong superficial resemblance to the kind of item one might consume as accompaniment to one's morning café con leche. Boy, was I fooled. Upon biting into this "baked good" (a misnomer if ever there was one), the immediate result was to have it suck all of the moisture from my mouth, effect a temporary shutdown of my salivary glands, and send me reeling towards the fridge in search of some resuscitating agua mineral.

Hence my suggestion: a synergistic merger between the producers of silica gel and Grupo "El Arbol", producers of aforementioned magdalenas cuadradas. Though, come to think of it, perhaps the name "El Arbol" should have been warning enough of the ligneous properties of this particular attack on the palate.

Observation # 3: Baked "goods" do not represent the summit of the eSpanish culinary arts.

The plain people of Ireland: Here, what's all this? Nothing for weeks, and now this kind of random rubbish? Has the sun addled your brains?
The management: Very possibly yes. But it's been an exhausting week. I promise to be more focused for the rest of my stay.
The plain people of Ireland: Oh, fair enough so. Carry on!

Kafka on the beach


It seems to me that, if one finds an image of Kafka on the beach, one has a certain obligation to share it with one's readers.
This picture is brought to you courtesy of my Table Talk amigos at Salon.com. Enjoy.
(No, I don´t know who the gentleman on the left might be).

Lesson learned

So, I had a wonderful time during my week at home in San Francisco. Got to catch up with many of my friends (though not as many as I would have liked), spent time hanging out with the kitties, got to see some of my favorite TV programs. One of the things I do miss aquí en España is being able to watch "The Daily Show" and "The Colbert Report" nightly (it's a sad commentary on the state of American news reporting that by far the best summary of current events is available in two satirical programs on the Comedy Channel: nothing can compare with the genius of Jon Stewart and Stephen Colbert, who seem to go from strength to strength).

Spanish TV news is, in comparison, a complete disaster, a sort of hyped-up version of typical local news reporting in the U.S. Earlier in the week each of the students in my class made a promise to one of our teachers to try to watch at least two hours of Spanish TV daily. A promise which I, for one, am already regretting, as I don't think it's possible to keep it without risking permanent brain damage. So I am reinterpreting the terms of the bargain with an emphasis on "trying to watch", rather than actually watching.

In my last post I mentioned that the trip from San Francisco was "arduous". With the benefit of hindsight, I have only myself to blame for this. Given a flight leaving San Francisco at 7am on a Sunday morning, arriving in Madrid the next morning at 9am, it probably wasn't the smartest strategy to stay up late Friday night (until 3am Saturday morning), then skip sleep altogether on Saturday night (because I had to leave for the airport at 4.30am), then lose Sunday night altogether to the time difference. By the time I got back to the apartment in Madrid, around mid-morning on Monday, the idea of packing and getting the bus to Salamanca that same day was quite obviously absurd. So instead I slept for about 18 hours straight, finally rousing myself at 7am on Tuesday to face the task of packing everything into my two (medium-sized) bags. I just thank my stars that I had this option, having paid for the apartment in Madrid through the end of July.

Note to self: stop buying books. They weigh a goddamned ton. Although I did manage to squeeze everything into the two bags, I was barely able to lift them, due to the assorted dictionaries, textbooks, reference materials etc. that I seem to have managed to accumulate in the past four months. And suffering cardiac arrest in the midday heat of a Madrid bus station would really be a terrible way to go. So before I move again, all of my books (barring, perhaps, a small dictionary) will have been shipped back to San Francisco.

However, I did manage to make the 2pm bus to Salamanca on Tuesday, and arrived at the school around 5pm, in the searing heat of the afternoon, laden like a pack animal, but otherwise none the worse for wear. I am now safely ensconced in the enormous, relatively expensive, hideously ugly, but very comfortable apartment owned by Don Quijote, two doors down from the school. So I certainly have no excuse for being late for class while here in Salamanca.

Lesson learned for future legs of this trip, and for all future trips:

  • Travel light.
  • If you can't learn to do without all those books (and apparently I can't), ship them separately.

Thursday, August 2, 2007

Aquí estoy

Just to let everyone know: I am here, in Salamanca, safe and sound. A little travel-weary, but presumably that's all part of the experience.


What is Salamanca like? Two words come to mind - old and picturesque. Extraordinarily picturesque. Here is a picture of the Plaza Mayor, to give you an idea
It is also teeming with students, of assorted nationalities. The kind of town which has bars rejoicing in names like "The Irish Rover". Where, regrettably, they sponsor toga parties. Which, you will be glad to hear, I avoid like the plague.
I will have more to tell about Salamanca in subsequent posts. Also more about my journey from San Francisco to Salamanca. Which was, in a word, arduous.
But aquí estoy. Y muy feliz.
Hasta pronto.

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Plans

I don't delude myself that anyone is paying really close attention, but anyone who might be tracking such matters will recognize that tomorrow ends my planned 12 weeks of classes here in Madrid. Given that my beginning level in Granada was B1 (beginning intermediate) and that I have been in level C2 (the highest level) for several weeks now, feeling less and less like an impostor, I think it is safe to say that I've learned quite a bit during my time in Madrid.

Not to mention that I've had a blast doing so, while managing to see a fair bit of the city as well. There are, of course, things I didn't manage to do (that trip to Toledo, for instance, or going to the opera, or visiting the Palacio Real), but this is all to the good as it surely means I will come back again. It's a terrific city, with a distinctly different atmosphere than that in Andalucía or Barcelona, and I think spending the best part of 3 months here was an excellent idea. It's nice to be around long enough to have one's regular breakfast spot (Faborit, on the Calle Alcala), a few lunch places where they get to know you as a regular (a shout out to the folks at "Root" on the Calle Virgen de los Peligros, who were always nothing less than amable and would help me with vocabulary questions whenever they had a spare minute).

What next? Well, it turns out that when I made my original plans, I wasn't paying close enough attention to the fact that 3 months equals 13 weeks, not 12. So my time in Salamanca is not slated to start until a week from Monday, leaving me next week free of classes. So I decided earlier in the month, with the very gracious cooperation of my housesitters in San Francisco, to use the week to fly back to San Francisco and catch up on things there for a bit. Accordingly, I fly out tomorrow (Madrid - Filadelfia - San Francisco), arriving Friday evening local time, and will fly back to Madrid, leaving Sunday July 29th, arriving back in Madrid on the morning of Monday July 30th. From where I will take a bus to Salamanca later that day.

There, because I am nothing if not goal-oriented, I will spend 4 weeks taking the preparatory class for an exam called the DELE (Diploma de Español como Lengua Extranjera), and take the exam itself on August 24th. After which there is no further plan, except that if I don't get to Ireland some time reasonably soon, a whole bunch of folks there are going to be justifiably annoyed, so I imagine that is where I will end up in late August and early September.

And now, you will have to excuse me. I need to start packing. The brand-new maleta, purchased just this afternoon at El Corte Inglés, should come in very useful.

Anyone in the Bay Area reading this is heartily invited to give me a ring (my number is in the San Francisco directory) to catch up, either in phone or in person, next week. Or send me an e-mail. After four months away, I'm dying to catch up with everyone. Assuming people can tear themselves away from the final Harry Potter tome.

So I won't be blogging a whole lot next week. Because I hope to be seeing many of you in person.

David

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

La grúa y la jirafa

The crane and the giraffe (animated short)

Meadowlands


This afternoon I went to the Prado. Where there is, frankly, an overwhelming amount of art. But I did manage to claw my way through the crowds to see "Las Meninas" (above). Which was larger than I had expected. Silent contemplation was not an option, however.

Overall, I have to say that I prefer Goya to Velazquez. Though that picture of Saturn devouring his son is unabashedly creepy. Not included here, to avoid giving my readers nightmares, though I encourage you to search for it on the web, as it is a very powerful image.

Previous entries have established beyond doubt that I am a lousy writer about art. So I will close this entry here.

The Prado: it's the Louvre of Madrid. Well worth a bisit.

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

The suite life

Regular readers of this blog will recall a certain amount of gloating a couple of weeks ago, occasioned by my having moved into the fancy suite here at Calle Valverde 32 (4º, izq). Gloating is, of course, always unattractive. More to the point, it is also highly unwise. I realize that now. Because, while the Greek gods may have fallen out of fashion, they are hardly out of work. Eternally s(c)ouring the globe (I personally imagine Hermes as a UPS man) for evidence of hubris, a gloating human somewhere, needing to be taken down a peg or two.

Ot to make my point using a different cliché, be careful what you wish for. Recall, that when I was waxing rhapsodic about the virtues of the suite, one photograph adduced as supporting evidence was the following:

view from my window 3

Yes, the delightful "view from the suite, onto the street below". Aye, gentle readers, there's the rub. Let's try adding a few appropriate adjectival phrases to that previous sentence.
"onto the incredibly noisy street, populated by loud, drunken pedestrians and garbage trucks that would raise the dead that pass by at all hours of the morning".

So there's that. A little bit of a noise problem. Which can be addressed, at least in part, by shutting the windows ( a reasonably tight seal) and the heavy wooden shutters. Except that this strategy leads to a little bit of a heat problem at night. Causing the kind of sweaty tossing and turning that is wholly unconducive to getting a good night's sleep.

God, I barely remember what a good night's sleep feels like.

But tonight I have a plan. I have my specially purchased earplugs from the Farmácia, and intend to use them. So that instead of tossing and turning, worrying about balancing the heat and the noise, I can instead toss and turn, obsessing about being unable to get the earplugs out of my ears ever again. Because you know I will. Obsess, that is.

I wonder if Spanish sign language is very different from American sign language?

Good night, gentle readers. Sleep tight.

Seated in the Courtyard in the Alhambra

From A FAR ROCKAWAY OF THE HEART

#76 Seated in the Courtyard in the Alhambra

by Lawrence Ferlinghetti


In the gardens of the Alhambra
I stole a small orange and ate it
The pulp dry and bitter
and the juice
(acrid as an arab driven from his land)
made a desert of my mouth
and shriveled up my tongue
in the Sultan's last revenge
And I fell upon the ground
in a deep swoon
Deep as the duende
in a gypsy's keening


las naranjas del Alhambra

Candle Hat




Candle Hat

by Billy Collins


In most self-portraits it is the face that dominates:
Cezanne is a pair of eyes swimming in brushstrokes,
Van Gogh stares out of a halo of swirling darkness,
Rembrant looks relieved as if he were taking a breather
from painting The Blinding of Sampson.

But in this one Goya stands well back from the mirror
and is seen posed in the clutter of his studio
addressing a canvas tilted back on a tall easel.

He appears to be smiling out at us as if he knew
we would be amused by the extraordinary hat on his head
which is fitted around the brim with candle holders,
a device that allowed him to work into the night.

You can only wonder what it would be like
to be wearing such a chandelier on your head
as if you were a walking dining room or concert hall.

But once you see this hat there is no need to read
any biography of Goya or to memorize his dates.

To understand Goya you only have to imagine him
lighting the candles one by one, then placing
the hat on his head, ready for a night of work.

Imagine him surprising his wife with his new invention,
the laughing like a birthday cake when she saw the glow.

Imagine him flickering through the rooms of his house
with all the shadows flying across the walls.

Imagine a lost traveler knocking on his door
one dark night in the hill country of Spain.
"Come in, " he would say, "I was just painting myself,"
as he stood in the doorway holding up the wand of a brush,
illuminated in the blaze of his famous candle hat.

Monday, July 16, 2007

Bourbon and water


Little baby Sofía was baptised yesterday. That's her, wearing the same christening outfit her sister and her daddy wore in their day. The baptismal font is also some kind of ancient relic, as is the arzebispo cardinal of Madrid. According to my reliable sources, the water in the baptismal font came straight from the river Jordan (insert lame joke about being flown in by Jordan-Air here ad lib).




Here is the Infanta, along with her older sister Leonor (ahead of her in the succession line), her parents and her grandparents. The lady in the pantsuit, holding Leonor, is the queen. Far left and far right are Doña Letizia's parents. Presumably glad that their daughter is adding a bit of variety to the Bourbon gene pool. Interestingly, Letizia's mother and father are now divorced, and her dad has found himself a new trophy wife. For purposes of official photographs, however, aforementioned new trophy wife simply does not exist.


Who have we here? You don't really want all the details, do you? Oh, very well. Back row - assorted duques of hazzard (i.e. the Príncipe's two older sisters and their aristocratty husbands); brunette in the back row is Letizia's sister. Joining the parents and grandparents in the front row are the surviving great-grandparents, all on Letizia's side. Letizia's maternal grandmother seems to have color-coordinated her outfit with the queen. Front row, assorted royal brats (I mean cousins, of course), future Eurotrash. The kid on the right is called Froílan, or something equally improbable.


And with this charming picture of Leonor and the new Christian, we will have to leave things for today. Even my saturation point has been reached. A little Bourbon goes a long way, especially when diluted with water.







Six wives and nine lives

6 wives and 9 lives

Saturday, July 14, 2007

Of pride and the fall

So this evening, for dinner, I went back to the ribs place. I had bought my copy of El País, and alternated during dinner between reading what the Spaniards think of David Foster Wallace's latest offering "Hablamos de Langostas" (Consider the Lobster) and watching the E-Spanish bersion of that ever-popular American TV staple - the woman who is so fat that she is unable to get out of bed. Parenthetical note - by American standards, the E-spanish señora was a mere piker, weighing in at a puny 210 kg, not even coming close to the 500-pound mark; they don't even pay attention on the Maury Povitch show unless someone is at least 900 lb and needs assistance breaking down the wall of the trailer in order to get out of bed.

Anyway, the ribs were juicy, the waiter was friendly, helping me with vocabulary words, and I was feeling pretty good about my life in general, and my Spanish knowledge in particular. Can you spell P - R - I - D - E ?

The waiter returns with the dessert menu. Nothing piques my appetite, so I decide instead to have a liqueur. With unwarranted self-satisfaction, I order a Drambuie with "un poquito de helado". The waiter seems surprised? Am I sure? Mutual confusion for a half a minute or so, until the penny finally drops. The word for "ice" is not "helado", dammit, it's "hielo".

Though, come to think of it, Drambuie and ice-cream sounds like a pretty decent combination too.

At least the waiter was kind enough not to offer to bring me the English version of the menu.

Friday, July 13, 2007

Torn

I knew nothing about Natalie Imbruglia before seeing these videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgT-rZAVdTM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osnUB9bUm-E

Got to give her major points for good humor and charm.

Bun-o-vision

As part of our commitment to scouring the internet for the good stuff so that you can spend your time at work shopping on E-Bay, here is a link to the exciting and entertaining Bun-o-Vision site.

http://www.angryalien.com/

Rabbits re-enacting major Hollywood movies in 30 second summaries - what's not to love?

1000 demons

As I close in on my final week here in Madrid, I begin, very cautiously, to breathe a slow sigh of relief. One of the worries about scheduling a three-month stay, to span the months of May, June, and July was - well - July in Madrid. Whenever I would mention to a Spaniard that I was planning to be in Madrid during July, there would be an inevitable furrowing of the brow, followed by deployment of the phrase "un calor de mil demonios" (the heat of a thousand demons).

But, I am relieved to report, so far things have been entirely soportable. While daytime temperatures have occasionally climbed to the mid-90's, there is a general cooling off at night, and the humidity has been reasonable.

I have my own theory as to why this has been the case. It is my belief that many of the hard-working heat demons have been seconded by Pope Rat-zinger to the newly reopened infierno, to deploy their little toasting forks in poking at Jerry Falwell and his ilk. This leaves central Spain suffering a seasonal shortage of demons, accounting for the relatively tolerable summer temperatures. Exact figures are hard to come by, but if one thinks that each circle of hell would need 100 demons as a skeleton crew, this leaves a maximum of 100 for Madrid.

I am working on an exact equation to convert the number of demons to degrees Fahrenheit, but my formula is not quite ready for prime time. Here, however, is how to convert temperatures from Fahrenheit to Celsius, and vice versa:

F = 32 + (9/5) x C

C = (5/9) x (F - 32)

Thursday, July 5, 2007

On hiatus

To those of you panting for torrid accounts of my torrid adventures in torrid Madrid, I must apologize for the gap between transmissions. Regular blogging will resume next week.

flirtatious natasha

baleful boris

Sunday, July 1, 2007

Three odd words

Here are examples of some Spanish words I find odd or noteworthy:

  • liderazgo : leadership (with the kind of etymology that presumably gives members of the RAE, the Real Academia Española, the fantods, deriving as it does from the Spanglish "líder").
  • esdrújulo/a : bearing the stress on the antepenultimate syllable (example - "esdrújula"); what surprises me about this word is its very existence.
  • celestina : a procuress, or madam. Such a mellifluous word deserves a less shabby meaning.

Famous depictions of la celestina in art include those by Picasso and Sorolla (see Friday's post):

Saturday, June 30, 2007

Quesos de cabra

more delicious quesos de cabra

In the suite

Whee! Today is my first exciting day in the suite where I will be staying for the rest of my time here in Madrid.

Here is a picture:

suite 7

To take the virtual tour (picture of my private bathroom not included), visit this link

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gaelstat/sets/72157600570599303/

And try not to be too jealous, OK?

Friday, June 29, 2007

El segúrometro

WARNING: oddly idiosyncratic rant ahead.

I assume that one purpose of a blog is to function as a useful channel for venting. So that's what this post is about. Something I need to get off my chest. Something unashamedly geekish, I might add. So don't say you weren't warned.

Here's the thing. Every language has its peculiarities, and Spanish is no exception. For anyone trying to learn Spanish, one striking and frustrating feature of the language is its apparent obsession with the speaker's degree of certainty. Of course, it is possible in Spanish to utter a simple declarative statement: "Begoña wore a blue dress", for instance. As a general rule, such simple declarations of fact pose no particular problem.

Should you, however, depart from the realm of objectively ascertainable facts, then - to put it mildly - all hell breaks loose. For now you have entered into the shadowy world of opinion, conjecture, and supposition, a morass from which you cannot hope to emerge unscathed. For some odd reason, should you depart, even in the slightest degree, from a state of absolute certainty, a huge spectrum of expressions and idioms opens up before you, ranging from the mildest conjecture ("Maybe Begoña was wearing a dress. It could have been blue. I really couldn't say for sure") to a high degree of confidence ("I'm pretty sure Begoña was wearing that blue dress she wore at her sister's wedding") to near-certainty. Or anything along the continuum of probability from complete ignorance to absolute certainty. Here is a small sampling:
  • Creo que
  • Me parece que

  • Supongo que

  • Se supone que

  • Me imagino
  • Seguro que
  • Estoy seguro de que
  • Es seguro

  • Para mí

  • Yo diría

  • Eso es

  • Es probable que

  • Es posible que

  • Puede ser

  • Puede
  • Quizás

  • Tal vez

  • Probablamente

  • Posiblemente

  • A lo mejor

  • Igual

  • Lo mismo

and whatever you're having yourself.

What's the problem? Well, for one thing, some of these expressions are followed by the indicative, some by the subjunctive, some by either indicative or subjunctive (depending on, you've guessed it, the teachers' favorite copout, "the context"). And you'd better get it right, because if you don't you will immediately mark yourself as an ignorant foreigner, whose command of the language is surpassed by any Spanish ten-year old. Furthermore - and this is the kernel of my rant - apparently, each of the expressions above represents an exquisitely calibrated tick-mark along the spectrum of certainty. Even worse, there is complete unanimity among all teachers of Spanish that it is the responsibility of every educated person to be able to associate each expression with its corresponding degree of certainty, whether one is using such an expression oneself, or trying to understand what someone else is saying.

Diagrammatically:


if we think of "F" a representing a state of complete certainty, and "E" that of total ignorance, or sheer conjecture, then apparently, it matters - a lot - to your average Spanish speaker, just where one's opinion lies along the spectrum in between. Hence the bewildering plethora of expressions, not to mention the hideous indicative-subjunctive wrinkle.

Gentle readers, I don't wish to brag. But I do have a Ph.D. in statistics, so it's fair to say that I know a thing or two about probability. When this odd Spanish fascination with specifying the exact nuances of a speaker's degree of certainty was explained to me, my immediate thought (after "you've got to be kidding me!") was how inefficient the whole system was. All those phrases, and still no guarantee that each speaker is measuring by the same yardstick: Jose's "me parece que" may or not correspond to the same degree of belief as Maria's, leading to confusion all around. So my INTJ brain immediately came up with a brilliant alternative - namely that everyone could carry a little calibrated semicircular disc, with a movable arrow, along the lines of the fuel gauge pictured above, simply move the arrow along the continuum until the desired certainty point is reached, and Bob's your uncle. Thus, if I am 71% sure that Begoña was wearing that damned blue dress, I can indicate as much with a simple flick of the wrist. No fuss, no muss, no confusion.

Yes, yes - of course I understand the potential pitfalls. Before long the cool kids will be less than satisfied with the cumbersome, manually operated analog display. Inevitably, the gizmo will undergo the same kinds of developments as the wristwatch - digital displays, accessorization in different colors, use as a status symbol. Divers will want their instruments depth-proofed. But we know that these technological challenges can be met. And if the society cares so deeply about communicating the exactly nuanced shade of belief, then this solution seems like a bold, crisp, new alternative to the ambiguous thicket of phrases, moods, and tenses that currently ensnares the learner. ¡Hola, Juan! estoy 83.456% seguro de que Begoña ..... Of course, you'd still have the indicative/subjunctive choice to make. But a simple default rule (e.g. less than 50% - subjunctive, otherwise indicative) would work well.


Sadly, I regret to say that, when I have presented my proposal in class, it has been met with eye-rolling disapproval and dismissive contempt by sundry teachers. I can only conclude that the sheer genius-like simplicity of the proposal makes them nervous by threatening their job security.



Until this week, that is. We were (yet again!) reviewing the hideous list of phrases above and (yet again!) trying to figure out which took the indicative form of the verb, which the subjunctive. When suddenly, in the margin of the text, I noticed what - at first glance - appeared to be a thermometer:




Oddly enough, a thermometer that appeared to be graded from 0 to 100%. Then I read the word next to it. Sure enough, gentle readers, it said "segúrometro", and was being used to locate each of the phrases above along a spectrum of probability from 0 to 100%.

So here is the essence of my rant. For proposing a device already used in their own pedagogical materials I was subjected to mockery and abuse by my teachers. When (after all, I am an INTJ) I pointed out the injustice of this (in a good-natured way) - stares of bovine incomprehension. The complete isomorphism between the fuel gauge display and the thermometer display was apparently too much to grasp.

If you've read this far, thank you for your indulgence. I feel much better now that I've gotten that off my chest. Next post will be back to our regularly scheduled blogging, with some useful information about the wines of Spain.

El pintor de la luz






"El pintor de la luz". Horrifyingly, in English this phrase has been appropriated by one Thomas Kinkade (The Painter of Light TM), to the extent that Media Arts Group, the company that peddles his work to the public at large, has somehow managed to trademark the phrase. "How can such things be?" you ask. I have no idea. As this is a family blog, and I have no desire to be accused of contributing to the corruption of the artistic taste of any children who might be exposed to its contents, I will spare you any visual depictions of what Laura Miller, book critic for Salon.com, describes memorably as:

Kinkade's weirdly compelling images of snug stone cottages whose unimaginably cozy interiors send an amber glow cascading out over their radioactively colorful gardens in the violet light of dusk.

For her entertaining review of Kinkade's literary efforts, follow this link:

The Writer of Dreck TM

Fortunately, where art is concerned, the Spanish are a little more selective. El pintor de la luz (not trademarked) refers not to el maestro de kitsch TM , but to the painter Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida, born in Valencia in 1863.

artrenewal.org link for sorolla (83 paintings)





Why am I telling you about Sorolla this evening? Because he was the subject of this evening's culture class. Which reminded me that our trip to the Museo Sorolla was one of the high points of Paddy's visit a few weeks ago. The museum is located in the artist's former home, and is an oasis of serenity on one of Madrid's busier traffic arteries. In addition to being filled with Sorolla's work, and some wonderful period furniture, the house is suffused with a kind of joy - it is obvious that the family who lived there was a happy and loving one. Here is a link to the museum's website:


Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida : el verdadero pintor de la luz.

Super laz-i-blog mode

Laz-i-blog mode is when I am too lazy to check the factual accuracy of whatever I write. Super laz-i-blog mode is when I am too lazy to bother to write anything of substance. Relying instead on cute pictures of my pets to carry the day.

boris on the carpet

sleeping beauty

waking beauty

The plain people of Ireland: Begob, but it looks like that marmalade cat is finally getting his weight under control.
The management: Silence, wretches! As I've told you before, Boris is not fat, he is merely big-boned. But now that you mention it, he does look a little slimmer - and more handsome than ever - in the picture above.

Thursday, June 28, 2007

Live from Millstreet

Millstreet LTV2 : Episode 60 part 1

Millstreet LTV2 : Episode 60 part 2

As much as anything else that I could write or share with you, the two ten-minute video clips above illustrate what I will always miss about Ireland.

(Millstreet is a small town in west County Cork, near the Kerry border, perhaps best-known for hosting the Eurovision Song Contest in 1993).

Shilling for Schweppes

That would be "shilling" as in the present participle of the verb "to shill", not to be confused with the defunct monetary unit "shilling" (en español : chelín) :

oscar winner shills for schweppes

Oh, Adrien, has it really come to this?

¿Sabes más que un niño de primaria?

¡ Que horror ! Madrid: 22:00 Thursday. I tune in to Antena3 for the final episode of "El Internado" (un lugar donde todo puede suceder) and what do I find? A Mark Burnett production:


¿Sabes más que un niño de primaria?

Two words: Jeff Foxworthy.

I am too outraged to write any more about this travesty right now.

The subjunctive in action

One important use of the subjunctive is to express a wish or desire. For instance:

use of the subjunctive to express a wish or desire

Note the use of the subjunctive form of the verb joder which, as this is a family blog, I am not at liberty to translate, the AngloSaxon form being considered offensive by many. The writer of the sign is expressing the wish that bankers and speculators engage in an activity which might be considered both obscene and biologically implausible.

Don Quijote


exciting text to follow, shortly. I promise!

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

What I've been Reading

The weekend before last I went to buy my first Spanish-Spanish dictionary, a milestone of sorts. Of course, I immediately spoiled the effect by wandering over to the section of the store with books in English and buying three. One of them was the collection "True Tales of American Life", edited and introduced by Paul Auster, in association with National Public Radio's weekend "All Things Considered" program. In 1999, NPR asked listeners to send in true stories, to be read on-air as part of the National Story Project. Response was overwhelming, and the book collects 180 of the submitted stories in one volume.






In the U.S., the title is "I Thought my Father was God, and Other True Tales from NPR's National Story Project".

It is a wonderful book, which I cannot recommend highly enough. Here is - hands down - my favorite story from the entire collection. Since it treats of the redemptive power of mathematics, how could it not be?

Mathematical Aphrodisiac


by Alex Galt

In the days when John and I used to break up all the time, we made a decision to see each other only casually. Dates were okay, but no more than once a week. We were going to lead separate lives, getting together occasionally when the spirit moved us, but without worrying about commitment.

One day at the beginning of this period, we were sitting together on the floor of John’s one-room apartment. He was knitting himself a sweater and I was reading Fermat’s Last Theorem. Every now and then, I’d interrupt his knitting to read him passages from my book.

“Did you ever hear of amicable numbers? They’re like perfect numbers, but instead of being the sum of their own divisors, they’re the sum of each other's divisors. In the Middle Ages people used to carve amicable numbers into pieces of fruit. They’d eat the first piece themselves and then feed the other one to their lover. It was a mathematical aphrodisiac. I love that – a mathematical aphrodisiac.”
John showed little interest. He doesn’t like math much. Not like I do. It was one more reason for us to be casual.

Christmas fell during this period, and since I hate to shop, I was glad to be able to cross John off my shopping list. We were too casual for presents. While I was shopping for my grandmother, however, I saw a cryptic crossword puzzle book and bought it for John. We had always worked on the cryptic crossword puzzles at the back of The Nation, and for five bucks I figured I could give it to him.

When Christmas rolled around, I handed John the book – unwrapped, very casual. He didn’t give me anything at all. I wasn’t surprised, but my feelings were a little hurt, even though I wasn’t supposed to care.
The next day, John invited me over to his apartment. “I have your Christmas present” he said. “Sorry it’s late.”

He handed me an awkwardly wrapped bundle. When I pulled it open, a rectangle of hand-knit fabric fell on my lap. I picked it up and looked at it, completely confused. One side had the number 124,155 knitted into it; the other side had 100,485. When I looked up at John again, he was barely able to contain his excitement anymore.
“They’re amicable numbers,” he said. “I wrote a computer program and let it run for twelve hours. These were the biggest ones I found, and then I double-knit them in. It’s a pot holder. I couldn’t give it to you last night because I still hadn’t figured out how to cast off. It’s kind of geeky, but I thought you might like it.”

After that Christmas, we were a lot of things, but we weren’t casual anymore. The ancient mathematical aphrodisiac had worked again.

Monday, June 25, 2007

FAT TONYS

FAT TONYS

Why does he look so much like a Simpsons character?

The plight of the mileurista

First things first. What is a mileurista, and why should we care? Under normal circumstances, I would give this question the careful, backed by the best google-research, answer it so clearly deserves. But circumstances here in Madrid are far from normal. Already today, I have been an active and dedicated participant during seven hours of classes, and spent an additional hour doing homework for tomorrow's classes. Actually, come to think of it, those are my normal circumstances here in Madrid. The result is that I am hecho polvo (literally "made into dust", colloquially "knackered"; do not confuse hecho polvo with a similar phrase, echar un polvo, whose meaning is left as an exercise for the diligent reader, and which should not be used in front of your abuela.) Accordingly, let the reader be warned that I am in special Laz-i-Blog mode, meaning that I not only reserve the right to make up stuff out of whole cloth, but intend to exercise that right freely in whatever follows.



The plain people of Ireland: This is an outrage!

The management: So what are you going to do about it? Sue me?

(indistinct sounds of muffled Hibernian indignation)



So, where was I? Oh, yes. A mileurista is someone whose monthly salary is approximately one thousand euros (1.000 €, as they would write it over here). A relevant figure because it represents the salary of a "typical" Spanish worker in their* twenties. As we are in Laz-i-Blog mode, let us accept the convenient fiction of the "typical" Spanish worker without further question.


Why am I telling you all this? Simply so that you will have a point of reference for the list of prices that follows. Because, clearly, the view of an affluent visiting foreigner (that would be me) is quite different from that of someone attempting to live in Madrid on a salary of 1.000 € per month. An approximate conversion factor is 1.00 € = $1.40.


  • Price of breakfast (cappucino + croissant) at Faborit : 2.15 €
  • Price of the same breakfast at Starbucks (sorry, eStarbucks) : 4 to 5 €
  • Ticket to see "eShrek Tercero" : 6.50 €
  • Cost of having 2 pants dry-cleaned : 10 €
  • Cost of having 5 shirts laundered and ironed (never again!) : 20 €
  • Cost of a haircut : 16 € + 2 € tip
  • Cost of a 3-star hotel room in central Madrid : 80 € + 7% tax
  • Cost of a 3-course lunch, including beer : 8.95 €
  • Cost of a beer in a regular Madrid bar : 1.75 to 3.00 €
  • Cost of a beer in a regular Seville bar : 1.10 to 2.00 €
  • Cost of having the nice man at the Corte Inglés relojería replace your watch battery while you wait : 5.25 €
  • Cost of the fan that Paddy bought as a present for ... : oops! I can't tell you that.
  • Cost to rent any kind of decent apartment in central Madrid : starts at 600€ per month
  • Cost of a bottle of water in any Madrid disco worth the name ª : 12 to 15 €

You begin to see why the poor mileuristas still live with their parents up to and beyond age 30.

* : yes, I know about agreement between subject and possessive pronoun, but his/her is an abomination.

ª: Remember, if trying to gain entry to a Madrid disco, the cardinal rule is: "no jeans, and no snickers". So, check your attitude at the door, bub!


The rain in e-Spain

"What is this E-spain?", you ask. "Some kind of Spanish website?". Well, no, not exactly. Perhaps a little vocabulary review will help clarify matters.

stress : estrés
striptease : estriptis
streaking : estriquin
dinner jacket : esmoquin
choke (car part) : estarter
spanglish : espanglish
statistician : estadístico/a
to snort (drugs) : esnifar
snob : esnob
slalom : eslalon
sphincter : esfínter
sponge : esponja
slogan : eslogan

Sting : eSting
Springsteen : eSpring-eSteen
Spain : eSpain